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Starter motor change 3200GT

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23/10/2009 17:39:58  

Posts: 55
Since: 13/3/2009
Status: offline
Over the last few days I noticed the starter turning ever slower and slower. I assumed it was the battery and so when it just went ‘clunk’ when I turned the key, I was surprised to see that the lights were bright and the wipers went full blast. ‘Bugger…it’s the starter then! ‘
Now I know that we live in a world where half wits blame others when they do something silly and they sue people who try to help. So the following is NOT advice for replacing a starter motor on a 3200GT or a suggestion of how to save a fortune…but if I was doing it again, I would like my instructions to read as follows.
45                     Where is the starter? After 3 of us spent 20 minutes looking for it, I eventually discovered the starter motor using a fibre optic camera! It’s sat right at the top of the engine under the inlet manifold and other gubbins. You cannot see it from just looking at the engine in situ.
89                     Where can I get a new starter from? Eurospares quoted a 240 pounds plus VAT plus carriage ...gulp. I never even asked a main dealer. Waterloo motor factors quoted about 160 pounds plus VAT (better)…...but a 4 week wait and Andrew Page motor factors said: “a maserati, no chance!”. However when I quoted the Valeo genuine part number that I got off the original (D6RA64) Andrew pages said it showed on their system as a Peugeot/Citroen/Lancia starter…”oh yes, we have one in stock…50.02 Pounds plus VAT” (Bosch reconditioned unit part number 0986016530-93N). Please read on however as it needs a very small alteration to make it fit.
12
13                     What tools do I need? 13mm, 14mm, 17mm open ended spanners, 6mm Hexagon key socket, 9” extension bar and a 3/8 drive ratchet (1/2” drive is too fat), medium sized cross head screwdriver and a pair of old side cutters. A magnet on a stick is a good idea and 13mm and 14mm shallow and thin sockets would help. Some kitchen roll and chocolate hobnobs help too.
1617                     How long will it take? Ages, as it’s a lot of faffing about. I took 4 hours in a leisurely way, stopping for the odd cup of coffee every now and again.
20
21                     Is it difficult? No, assuming you are an average amateur spanner wielder. No special tools are needed and the whole thing can be done with the car sat on the drive.
2425                     How to do it? Now this bit will sound long and complicated. Yes it is long, no it is not complicated. I would start from the rear of the engine and work my way forward, that way you are less likely to miss something and instructions are easier to follow.
 
A     Disconnect the car battery, ensuring that the windows are down a little (just in case you want to open the doors!) 5 minutes.
B     If you can use an air line or similar, blow clean the top of the engine especially around the bottom of the inlet manifold, where it bolts to the head. Mine was full of leaves. I had no air line, so used a vacuum cleaner and a clean paintbrush to clean it all up. 10 minutes
C     Start at the back of the engine and undo the following;
1              The four push-on black pipes (very small diameter) right at the back of the inlet manifold. Try to remember where to put them back. (2 minutes)
2              Using a 17mm spanner undo the 4 fuel pipe unions (2 per fuel rail) above and to each side of the inlet manifold. (4 minutes)
        3              Unclip the 8 fuel injector electrical connectors. (4 minutes)
        4              Unclip the 2 small fuel vapour breather pipes that come from the front of the
fuel rails. Use the old side cutters to undo the clips, you can reuse them. (4 minutes)
5              Unclip the 2 breather pipes on the black box thingy at the front of the engine (to the right as you look at the engine….it has 3 pipes about ½” diameter going into it, you only need to undo the middle and left pipes). Again use the sidecutters gently and you can then reuse the clips. (5 minutes)
6              Undo the electrical connector to the left front of the engine (as looking at it) that connects to the throttle body. It unclips. (2 minutes)
7              Undo the large hoseclip that connects the air intake pipe to the front of the throttle body. Pull the air intake pipe forward. (3 minutes)
 
If all is well, you shouldn’t be able to see anything else connected to the inlet manifold apart from both sets of injectors and fuel rails that you do NOT need to remove. If you see any other rubber hose remove it and curse me for forgetting to tell you.
 
        Now you need to remove the entire inlet manifold/fuel injectors/fuel rails and this is easy, as follows:
66
67                     Undo the 16 hexagon bolts (6mm) that hold the manifold down to the head. Be very careful to remove the bolt AND the washers (you do NOT want them to fall into the head as you remove the manifold. I used a small magnet on a stick). (10-15 minutes)
7071                     Now you need a helper and between you (one on each side) lift the manifold straight up about 6” only.
74
75                     The person on the passenger side now needs to undo an irritating ½” vacuum pipe that is on the bottom of the manifold. (1-5 minutes plus swearing)
7879                     With this undone, the manifold, injectors and fuel rails will easily lift off in one piece. Put it all safely on some cardboard or similar, to avoid damaging it.
82
83                     Now before anything else, cover up all 8 openings into the head. I just put a wad of gently squashed up kitchen roll in each. You MUST make sure that nothing falls down these holes. (take a few minutes here and be very careful…drop something down there and it will make you cry)
 
By now, you will at last be able to see the starter motor…under some pipes!
 
9293                     You only need to undo the two rear pipes, leave all the others alone. (5 minutes)
96
97                     Now using a 14 mm spanner undo the middle bolt holding the starter in place. Once part undone (it’s almost one flat at a time and takes forever) undo the 2 other bolts that hold in the starter; these for some silly reason are 13mm, each one has a braided earth to it…remember that later! (10 minutes plus swearing)
100101                     Now the starter will move, but is held in by its cables. Unplug the small spade connector and using the 13mm spanner undo the main power lead. This takes a while as there is very little space. Be patient. (another 10 minutes in my case)
 
Now the starter will come out of the space at the back, where you undid the 2 hoses. (2 minutes jiggling it)
 
110
111                     Have a well earned cup of tea and a chocolate hobnob. (30 minutes seems reasonable)
 
 
Now look in dismay as the Bosch starter turns up and looks different! (in my case 5 minutes wimpering followed by 5 minutes careful measuring and inspecting). Don’t panic though. The only difference is the casting that bolts it to the bell housing. This is easily swapped with the old one by undoing 4 small torx or hexagon keys and takes less than 5 minutes.
 
Refitting is absolutely the reverse of the above and takes less time. To be absolutely certain that nothing had fallen down the head, I used a magnet on a stick to trawl around each of the 8 ports before replacing the inlet manifold.
 
I spent ages at each stage making sure that I’d not missed anything. Whilst I was at it I inspected all the hoses and stuff under the manifold and would have replaced anything that looked like it was old and cracked.
 
Yes it took me 4 hours in total, but I saved an absolute packet. The whole thing cost me less than 60 pounds. The Bosch unit is a reconditioned Valeo unit and is absolutely identical to the OE unit (once I’d changed the casting on the end).
 
Obviously there are members of this forum who love their Maseratis and can afford Maserati prices to get them fixed. If that’s you, what I’ve written here is not of much relevance. Unfortunately I am one of those who has saved for years to buy the car and although prepared to pay Maserati prices when I have to, I will save money where I can, if it in no way adversely affects my car.
 
Every time I’ve read someone’s money saving tips on this forum, there is someone with pots of money who belittles them and casts doubt on the appropriateness of their advice. So what I’ve written here is not advice at all. I just thought I’d share my experience for the benefit of anybody like me, who loves their car and comes from the peoples republic of Yorkshire (ie careful with their pennies).
 
Sometimes it is easy to think of Maseratis as being like space ships…they are not. They are cars made of fairly bog standard parts, many of which are the same as other cars. Don’t be frightened of it. I have saved hundreds and hundreds of pounds that I can spend on petrol now….and that means I smile a lot because I can drive it some more.
 
Cheers Neil
 
 
23/10/2009 17:55:01  

Posts: 55
Since: 13/3/2009
Status: offline
Sorry for the odd numbers that have appeared...guess who copied and pasted it!
23/10/2009 19:29:21  

Posts: 88
Since: 16/4/2009
Region: North East Hampshire
Status: offline
Hi Neil,

I think thats a great account of the job and how to do it.  Well done to you for taking the time to share your experiences and save the rest of us some pennies, time and cursing should we need to undertake the same starter motor change. 

It's this type of report that really makes this forum worthwhile.

All the best - Garry C

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3200GT Assetto Corsa manual 36/75
23/10/2009 19:58:29  
 

Posts: 17
Since: 11/10/2008
Status: offline
Nice one!!!!

Interesting about the use of the starter on a peugeot - but I like it.  like you say they are not exclusive parts to maserati only and I will be for one noting this one as it will probably go on mine!!!

I have only ever removed the starter motor (not completely, still with wires attached) when changing the clutch/ removing gearbox and they were an absolute pig to get at, hugging the gearbox to get a spanner near them.  nice to know I can replace from the engine bay.

lets have more like this
23/10/2009 21:44:39  

Posts: 383
Since: 8/12/2008
Region: Exeter
Status: offline
Great Neil thanks. Will be hoping it never happns to me but keeping this just in case! Andy

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3200GT 2002 Verdi Mistral/Grigio Medio with Grigio Nube wheels (now sold)
Alfa Romeo 156 Azzurro Gabbiano
VW "Trident" T4 camper (now sold)
Golf 20SE Cabrio
23/10/2009 23:32:27  
 

Posts: 147
Since: 23/6/2009
Status: offline
Great Job Neil!
I fully agree with you. Why should you pay high price for parts you can get cheaper (whatever you can afford them or not).
One year ago, I replaced the complete clutch by myself with orginal Sachs Parts. I paid 750Euro while Maserati Dealer was asking for 1600Euro? Today you can get this clutch kit even cheaper. With that price difference you can buy a set of new tires!
To reach the starter bolts from the bottom of your car you really need surgenor's + Swearingsssss 

Thanks!


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Bernard
Maserati 3200GT AC (Manual)
23/10/2009 23:34:31  

Posts: 775
Since: 19/8/2007
Status: offline
Excellent post Neil which demonstrates where sensible savings can be made by alternative sourcing of equivalent non crtical parts

Well done 

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You can lead a horse to water but you cannot force it to drink
24/10/2009 0:12:09  

Posts: 373
Since: 5/7/2009
Region: Stevenage
Status: offline
Great job - well done I will keep this blow by blow account. It really helps me being new to this mark to understand any issues won may encounter when carrying out theses jobs. Did you take any photos? Again thanks for taking the time to post your account I work on the basis that if someone built it by hand why can I not repair/replace items myself. All you need is the will and the knowledge which you have taken the time to pass to us all.

Thanks PeterC

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A man and his toys - is a happy man!!!!
24/10/2009 10:24:00  

Posts: 1677
Since: 22/12/2006
Region: Chichester, West Sussex
Status: offline
Well done Neil, that's another few quid back in our pockets rather than Maserati's.

Just what this forum is all about!
22/3/2010 11:54:12  

Posts: 108
Since: 30/6/2007
Region: Maidenhead
Status: offline
This is exactly what happened to my car this weekend, I shall be following the guide very closely next weekend! Thanks very much indeed for this excellent post!

< Message edited by NickP -- 22/3/2010 12:02:35 >


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3200 GT
22/3/2010 13:17:23  

Posts: 186
Since: 5/6/2009
Region: Aberdeen
Status: offline
Good post Neil

have made a copy to add to my file!!!

I have the workshop manual on this operation too if any one is planning to have a go.

I agree with you on not being scared of the car, it is underneath just a car, but probably worth the effort more than most.



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keepin it running
22/3/2010 23:14:01  

Posts: 208
Since: 8/3/2008
Status: offline
Brilliant tip with the Bosch equivelent. Mine is begining to slow down..... I have been hopping it's the battery but I feel it's the starter. Since you need to take the manifold off, might be worth changing the 4 short coolant hoses with silicone ones as these are a weekness

thanks again for the tip
27/3/2010 22:01:41  

Posts: 108
Since: 30/6/2007
Region: Maidenhead
Status: offline
Had a go at this today, not a fun job to say the least. Allen bolt sheared on manifold, drilled pilot hole then snaped the stud extractor in it. Like I say not much fun.

Anyhow some amendments needed to the above description of the job:-

The left hand breather that is fed through the throttle body need to be undone on the rail side & at the black box on the passenger side. The centre pipe that goes to the right hand rail doesnt need to be removed at all.

A breather pipe on the right hand side of the manifold, very small one, halfway along its length needs to be removed.

My starter motor was fitted with 3 x 13mm bolts, no 14mm when mine was put together I guess.

Finally and probably the biggest thing missing from the instructions is to drain the coolant at the start of the process. You need to do this as the pipes in the way of the starter motor contain coolant and its best to drain via the rad than have fluid pour out all over the place when you undo the 2 pipes!!

< Message edited by NickP -- 29/3/2010 9:48:27 >


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3200 GT
6/7/2010 17:39:01  

Posts: 42
Since: 16/6/2008
Status: offline
Gents.
That’s some great info.
Ref my 99 GT3200 manual.
Saturday afternoon id pulled into Halfords car park to peruse some DAB radios. The car had ran for about 20 miles. I spent 20 minutes in Halfords and came out to the engine barely turning on the key.  I’ve got a decent battery in there that’s only two years old. ( Bosch 75 amp/hour). Some friends tried to jump start the car and it made absolutely no difference. I suspected the starter. Even though I’m a mechanic (embarrassed) but I don’t have the facilities to move a dead Maz. What the hell I’m in the southwest I’ll get it taken up to Carrs of Exeter.
Today they phoned to say they got it running by turning engine over manually! It now starts on the key. But they consider the starter to be “lazy”.  I’m picking the car up tomorrow and once home will attempt to sort this out myself, I’m in the same school of thought as Neil. I’m going to post this on the general 3200 forum. If I remember I’ll try to take some phots step by step etc and post them here
 
 
Just going off on a tangent my breakdown/recovery cost me £29 a year if anyone wants the details please feel free to request info.
 
One more thing
Im 6’3. Has anyone ever had a go at lowering the driver’s seat or removing padding etc? 
 
 
6/7/2010 21:55:59  

Posts: 208
Since: 8/3/2008
Status: offline
Hi
I had a similar problem, changed the starter and the problem did not go away..... Turned out to be the +ve feed though the bulkhead above the fuses on the passenger footweel was loose!

Good luck
Bill
20/7/2010 0:40:56  

Posts: 42
Since: 16/6/2008
Status: offline
Neil.
I followed your steps and have to stay your bang on. Although im only half way. i.e. the starter is out. I cant really add much to your post as the job was, so far, pretty straight forward.
Just a few small details I did that ( I think) made life easier.

Ref the three starter bolts.. I removed the top one (14mm head) last. Once id cracked open the two bolts left and right. There was no pressure on them so I could get my fingers in there to undo them fully easily.
A decent torch was handy as there are lots of shadows in the nooks and crannies.
I’ve got one of those pen/radio aerial type telescopic magnets. Perfect for lifting the manifold bolts and washers out.
Ref the water pipes. Yes good call. I to only had to disconnect the rear two and wedge em up out the way
I removed the top plate (Trident emblem) covering the throttle body. As it made it a lot easier to release the breather pipe from the oil vapour separator (the black box thingy)
I had to undo the two Allen bolts holding the steel fuel line. So I could line up the Allen key to the manifold bolts
And really that’s about it. I think you’ve done us all a great service so many thanks im gonna try and up load a few photos.
 
Many thanks
Ade
 














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27/7/2010 1:01:18  

Posts: 42
Since: 16/6/2008
Status: offline
Part 2
 
Nothing must to say. it all went back together without  any hitch..i did get a mate to re fit the breather pipe on the underside of the manifold while i held it above the engine..new O rings were fitted with a slight smear of silicon gasket cement.
 
The starter was £117 inc vat and also included the surcharge of £25 as I kept the original valeo starter.  Easy job to change and fit the mounting casting from the original valeo starter and fit it the Bosch (made in the Ukraine) replacement. Massive improvement in cranking speed. I honestly thought the job was easy.
 
PS
 
Before I undid the manifold bolts. I gave the 12in 3/8 drive extension bar a cpl of sharp taps with a hammer to make sure the Allen key was fully seated in the bolt head and to assist in “breaking the seal” The boot over the solenoid was perished. I didn’t replace it. As I don’t feel it was necessary and frankly wasn’t willing to pay 40 quid for a piece of rubber.  








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